The Saw - Jigsaw - Rocking Horse
Black Benchmark to West Partner
Date: 07/11/2024
Partners: Joel Racicot
Trialhead: Booth Falls
Summits:
* Black Benchmark (unranked 13er)
* Peak H (unranked 13er)
* Peak J (lowly 12er)
* Peak P (lowly 12er)
* West Partner (ranked 13er)
Booth TH to Camp below Booth Lake: 4.5 Miles - 2800ft - 2hrs 5min
Camp > Black BM > West Partner > Camp : 6.75 Miles - 4750ft - 12.5hrs (not all vert is created equal)
Black Benchmark 14ers.com Page
Peak H 14ers.com Page
West Partner 14ers.com Page
Lay Of The Land
The remote ridge between Peak C and West Partner Peak offers incredible views, sustained high quality 3/4/low 5 scrambling on solid rock with significant exposure. The ridge is fairly navigational... so you will be exloring and evaluating various route options most of the day.
This long ridge has historically been divided into four primary segments.
Ripsaw: Peak C to Peak H
The Saw: Peak H to Peak J
Jigsaw: Peak J to Peak P
Rocking Horse: Peak P to West Partner Peak
I am not quite sure why Jigsaw gets it's own designation and isn't included as a part of The Saw. The terrain is similar and I can't imagine setting out to do just the Jigsaw as an objective. In my mind it is naturally a part of Rocking Horse. But hey, the Gore is the Gore... strange, mysterious, weird and filled with history and lore. Thats what makes it so special.
This report covers Black Benchmark to West Partner Peak. I was stormed off of Ripsaw on Peak G a few years earlier, so I thought it appropriate to start on Black Benchmark.
Access
The obvious choices for accessing Peak H (start of The Saw) are from Piney Lake or Booth Falls. We chose to do an overnight from Booth and run the ridge from north to south for the following reasons.
* The 'trail' between Upper Piney and the junction below Knee Knocker Pass is terrible. Deadfall, marshes, over growth, muddy, easy to loose the trail and end up schwacking. Not a fun section.
* Running the ridge north to south offers more climbing (vs. down climbing) of spicy terrain
* Running the ridge in the direction of camp pyschologically encourages you to complete the ridge vs. dropping early because you are getting further from camp.
* The overnight was nice as it gave us fresh legs and a 4.5m 2800ft jump on the day. We also didn't have to deal with the trailhead logistics discussed below in the wee hours of the morning.
* It was nice to have dinner at camp after completing the ridge.
* Although we hiked out after getting back to camp, we had the option to hike out the next morning if desired.
Booth Falls Trailhead Logistics
As of the date of this report, the Booth TH allows drop offs only... no parking... no exceptions. "Unattended Vehicles Will Be Towed". To solve this problem we requested an overnight parking exception for the Pitkin TH from the Vail Police and ran a 1.3 mile bike shuttle between the two trailheads. This made things easy on both ends of the trip. No fussing with the bus or walking the road.
There were also self service e-bike rentals at the Booth TH. So thats an option as well. You just take the risk that bikes are available when you need them.
Approach
In contrast to Summit County, Vail side access to the Gore is relatively boujee. The trails are well maintained, no deadfall, no downed trees, no overgrown vegitation, stairs built into steep sections etc. The hike from the Booth TH to camp was pleasant and easy. Our camp spot was stellar... flat, soft and easy access to water. Bugs weren't too bad but bring repelant and watch out for the marmots!
Traversing The Ridge
There are so many ways you can traverse this ridge. I doubt it has been done the same way by any two groups. This report should give you a general flavor for what to expect. Go in with the expectation that you will be constantly navigating and climbing/down climbing exposed pitches in the class 4 / low 5 range. If this kinda thing is your jam, you will remember it as one of your best days of scrambling. I know I will.
6.75 Miles - 4750ft - 12.5hrs from camp. Not all vert is created equal
A great spot to filter water. West Partner in sunset light
A great camp spot - Outpost in the sunset
A nice little lake just below East Booth Pass. Looking back to Holy Cross in the sunrise
Upper Piney Lake from Booth Pass. Peak H front and center
We had to negotiate a bit of snow descending from the pass into Upper Piney. Smooth sailing once in the valley
Early morning light on The Spider(R) and The Fly (L)
Peak H over Upper Piney. We gained Peak H's west ridge close to the lowest snow patch on the ridge.
The Spider! East Booth Pass on the left. You can see the snow we scrambled around on descent.
Ok... let's get this party started. Alex and Joel on Black Benchmark
Looking south towards Peak H from Black Benchmark. West Partner waaaayyy off in the distance
Alex on Peak H's southern summit
Would the real Joel Racicot raise your hand. Joel on Peak H's northern summit. Not sure which is higher
Joel descending Peak H's south ridge... the 'official' starting point for The Saw
Slabby edgey down climby fun
The first 4/low 5ish climb just after the slab
Looking back to Peak H's iconic Straight Arrow Couloir
Peak L from the north
Alex heading south on The Saw. West Partner (our final ridge stop) at the top of the image. Upper Piney Lake below
A day full of climbing and descending towers
A day of scrambling cat walks
Plenty of evaluating route options
Joel climbs with The Spider behind
Stay the ridge and climb the towers
Looking back (north) towards Peak H and Straight Arrow Couloir
Peak J (above my head) so close yet so far away. West Partner not so close and very far away (top right)
Joel contemplates route options
One last tower before the final push to Peak J
Easterly views of Upper Slate from Peak J. Peak L (The Necklace) left of the lake
Alex starting the Jigsaw section of the ridge. Fifty feet below the summit we found the summit register. Signed it and returned it to the summit. Register quote "Broken trails are for broken men"
The Jigsaw - down climbing to the notch and climbing out of the notch was the crux of this section
Approaching Peak P
Peak Q (aka The Prisoner) - Pogo Pinnacle is the nub to the right - Peak L through the saddle
Oh yeah... Peak L aka The Necklace
The scrambling continues
West Partner finally looking close but still plenty of action between here and the summit
A perch with a view and a short break
More spicy down climbing
More exposed climbing
This down climb was one of the spicier moments of the day
Another one of those so close but so far away moments
We climbed all of the towers but did not stand on the top of this one
Wow... we are here! Joel summits West Partner. The Spider and The Fly across the valley
Looking back across Rocking Horse, Jigsaw and The Saw from West Partner
Stoked!
We had to negotiate some snow descending West Partner's west ridge. Sun cups were helpful
Back to the small lake below East Booth Pass
Looking back to West Partner from the lake
Descending back to the Booth Falls trail. Booth Lake across the way